Also known as dado-head blades, these are for cutting grooves across the grain and with the grain (ripping) in all types of wood.

Cut through hidden nails in reclaimed lumber. The carbide-tipped steel teeth on these blades are designed to handle impact as they cut across and with the grain (ripping). They bite into wood to make both straight and plunge cuts, so they can slice through material that’s already installed. Detach the center piece to expose the diamond shape of the arbor.

Aluminum-alloy-coated steel blades resist the heat buildup from high-speed cutting, which helps keep them sharp. They stay cool as you cut, so sawdust won’t stick to them as easily, and they won’t burn your wood. These blades also have anti-vibration vents that reduce shaking for a quieter, more accurate cut.

Warning: Use wheels that have a greater rpm rating than the no-load rpm of your tool.

Use these blades for occasional cutting. Choose blades with more teeth for cutting across the grain; choose blades with fewer teeth for cutting with the grain (ripping). For blades with a round/diamond arbor, detach the center piece to expose the diamond shape.

No need to change blades when cutting different material—these blades cut through both metal and wood. Their carbide teeth make clean cuts in wood and burr-free cuts in metal. They’re also impact-resistant, so these blades easily slice through wood with nails in it. An aluminum alloy coating reduces heat buildup, keeping these blades cool as you cut. This helps prevent material from burning, deforming, or gumming up your blades, and it also helps keep blades sharp. Anti-vibration vents limit shaking for accurate, stable cuts, and they also reduce cutting noise.

These blades make straight and plunge cuts. Detach the center piece to expose the diamond shape of the arbor.

Warning: Use wheels that have a greater rpm rating than the no-load rpm of your tool.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Also known as rip blades, these steel blades have large, forward-angled, carbide-tipped teeth for making fast cuts with the wood grain (ripping).

Cut wood, plywood, and particleboard. Choose blades with more teeth for cutting across the grain; choose blades with fewer teeth for cutting with the grain (ripping). Blades with a narrower width of cut make faster cuts with less material loss.

With a large number of teeth, these blades make smooth cuts across the wood grain for a finish that needs minimal sanding. To keep your cuts straight and accurate, they have laser-cut anti-vibration vents that add stability. The vents also dissipate heat to prevent dulling. Use these blades on wood, plywood, and particleboard. They’re good for applications such as making long, accurate cuts on a sheet of plywood or cutting bevels and angles into wood framing to make a door or window.

When choosing a blade, you’ll want to keep in mind the number of teeth and width of cut. Choose more teeth for cutting across the grain; choose fewer teeth for cutting with the grain (ripping) or through thicker materials. A narrower cut width makes faster cuts with minimal material loss; a wider cut width increases stability for straighter cuts.

Blades with an aluminum-alloy-coated body further reduce heat buildup when cutting. This protects your material from burning and keeps dust from sticking to your blade and gumming it up. The coating also prevents the blade from dulling.

Warning: Use blades that have a greater rpm rating than the no-load rpm of your tool.

Also known as dado-head blades, these are for cutting grooves across the grain and with the grain (ripping) in all types of wood.

Use these blades for occasional cutting. Choose blades with more teeth for cutting across the grain; choose blades with fewer teeth for cutting with the grain (ripping).

Cut through metal, plastic, and other materials without having to change blades. These blades have carbide-tipped teeth that make clean cuts through plastic while being durable enough to make burr-free cuts through metal.

When choosing a blade, you'll want to keep in mind the number of teeth and the width of the cut. Choose more teeth for a smoother cut; choose fewer teeth for a faster cut and for cutting thicker materials. A narrower cut width makes faster cuts with minimal material loss; a wider cut width increases stability for straighter cuts.

Blades with an aluminum-alloy-coated body resist heat buildup when cutting, so they stay sharp and don’t get gummed up with dust and metal shards. Since they stay cool, they won’t accidentally burn or harden the edge that you’re cutting. These blades also have anti-vibration vents that limit shaking for straight, accurate cuts. They further reduce heat buildup to prevent dulling.

Warning: Use blades that have a greater rpm rating than the no-load rpm of your tool.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Make perfectly straight cuts in wood, plywood, and particleboard with minimal splintering. These blades fit in your track saw to cut along the precision track. They make straight and plunge cuts, so they’re good for cutting a sheet of wood into precise pieces before fabrication or construction.

When choosing a blade, you’ll want to keep in mind the number of teeth and width of cut. Choose more teeth for cutting across the grain or when you want a smoother cut; choose fewer teeth for cutting with the grain (ripping) or when you want a faster cut. Blades with fewer teeth also cut thicker materials. A narrower cut width makes faster cuts with minimal material loss; a wider cut width increases stability for straighter cuts.

Blades with anti-vibration vents add stability for even straighter, more accurate cuts. They have a coating that resists heat buildup when cutting, which helps keep them sharp. They stay cool as you cut, so sawdust won’t stick to them as easily, and they won’t burn your wood.

Warning: Use blades that have a greater rpm rating than the no-load rpm of your saw.