Reach inside panels, disconnects, and raceway to bend and position heavy duty cable with greater precision and less fatigue than bending by hand. The dies on the ends of these benders are sized to handle large wire gauges; fit your cable into the dies and push or pull the handle to bend.

Keep style A benders in your belt pouch for on-the-fly bends and especially tight spots. They attach to a standard 1/2" square drive ratchet wrench, which acts as the handle.

Style B benders have dies on both ends of the handle. The dies on one end of the bender are oriented differently than the dies on the other end, so if one end doesn't give you the leverage you need, you can flip the bender around and use the other end.

Especially useful for bending cable inside an enclosure, style C benders include a bender and a T-handle adapter. Fit the adapter into the center of the bender to use it like a large T-handle key or lug wrench. In the T-handle configuration, the tool delivers more torque than a bender alone. You can also use the bender by itself—the dies on either end of the bender are oriented differently, which means you can flip the bender around if one end doesn't give you the leverage you need.

For the most versatility, and for bending the thickest cable, style D benders include two long benders and one T-handle adapter. With a 22"-lg. bender in each hand, you'll have the most possible leverage—place the cable between the dies, and squeeze the two benders together like a bolt cutter. Another option, which is good for bending cable that's already inside an enclosure, is to attach the handle adapter to the bender to create a T- or L-shaped lug wrench. As a third option, use either one of the straight-handle benders on its own.

Smooth dies wear less on the cable's insulation than knurled dies but are also more likely to slip.

Knurled dies provide better grip and leverage on large cable than smooth dies but might scuff and wear soft insulation material.

With hardened rollers and precision-machined gears, these rolling mills stand up to heavy use. They’re often used to compress sheets to an uncommon gauge size, convert scrap metal into sheets or wire, or create different thicknesses in a single piece of metal without welding multiple pieces together. After several passes through the mill, you may need to anneal your metal to soften it and prevent cracking.

Manual mills are gear driven, making them easier to turn than direct-drive rolling mills. Their rollers have grooves so you can form square and half-round wire in addition to sheets.

Electric mills do not require hand cranking, so they provide the power you need to complete high volumes of work. They have flat rollers for creating uniform sheets.

Gear speed ratio indicates the force it takes to turn the output gear. For instance, the manual rolling mill has a 4:1 gear ratio, meaning that you rotate the handle four times to turn the gear powering the rollers once.

Flatten bumps, bends, and curves on coiled wire with these straighteners. They have roller wheels that apply consistent pressure along the wire for a smooth, straight result. Grooves in the wheels hold the wire in place as you manually move it through, so you don't need a wire feeder. To straighten wire with different diameters, twist the adjustment knob to change the spacing between wheels. The aluminum body resists corrosion from moisture. It's also nonmagnetic, so copper and other metal wire won't get stuck.

Designed for looping and bending wire, these tools are also known as round-nose pliers. They have round, tapered jaws to avoid nicking or marring objects. However, compared to pliers with flat jaws, they don’t hold objects as well. All pliers have plastic grips for comfort.

Pliers with a wire cutter have a cutting blade on the jaws.

Choose these stainless steel pliers for environments where moisture and other contaminants are present. They resist corrosion that can hinder joint movement, but the jaws will wear more quickly than a steel tool. Use them to loop and bend wire. Also known as round-nose pliers, their round jaws don’t hold objects as well as flat jaws. The jaws are spring assisted to open automatically when you release the handles. These pliers have plastic grips for comfort.

Pliers with a wire cutter have a cutting blade on the jaws.

Static-dissipative pliers drain static away from your application, preventing buildup from electrostatic discharge (ESD) that can damage sensitive equipment.

The soft jaws on these pliers bend and loop wire without scratching or marring it. Also known as round-nose pliers, these pliers prevent damage to your workpiece, but their round jaws don’t hold as well as flat jaws. Made from stainless steel, they’re good for environments where there’s moisture and other contaminants. They resist corrosion that can hinder joint movement, but the jaws will wear more quickly than steel jaws. The grips are plastic for comfort.

Insulated grips protect against accidental contact with live electrical circuits. These pliers are tested to 1,000 volts to meet IEC 60900. Designed for looping and bending wire, they are also known as round-nose pliers. The ultra grip is made of hard and soft materials for comfort and slip resistance.

The smallest round-nose pliers we offer allow you to bend and loop wire in the smallest spaces, including under a microscope. These tools have spring-assisted jaws that open automatically when you release the handles.

Wrap a coil tightly around a terminal post for a strong electrical connection. These compact tools won't bump into neighboring terminal posts and disrupt the rest of your circuit board, making them ideal for accessing posts that your hands can’t reach. Thread stripped wire into the tip, insert the tool over a post terminal, and twist to form a coil. Alternate between winding and unwinding by reversing the tip, just as you would a screwdriver bit.