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As the face of these plungers is pushed in, the internal spring applies outward pressure to hold a workpiece in position against stops and rails.
Set the tang in a slot below the work surface to prevent thin material from sliding underneath the face.
As the workpiece pushes against the pin head in one direction, the internal spring pushes back to hold it in place for clamping.
Sealed at the top to prevent debris from getting inside and making them seize up, these guide pins are a good choice for machining fixtures.
Threading makes these guide pins easier to remove and replace than press fit, so they're useful for high-wear applications.
Use these tools for easier guide pin installation.
Thread in a screw, handle, or other part to create the right size and shape guide pin for your application.
Install with a hex key for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.
These spring plungers have a nose that is about three-times longer than standard long hex-nose spring plungers.
Fasten from the nose end with a wrench for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.
Noses are up to four times longer than standard long-nose press-fit spring plungers.
A flange keeps the plunger from being pushed through a hole when the ball is depressed.
Install with a driver.
Slotted on both ends for installation with a screwdriver.
Retract the nose by pulling the knob.
Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.
Quickly align, join, or hold machine components in place in food, pharmaceutical, and other sanitary environments. Pulling the plunger knob and twisting it 90° will lock the nose into its retracted position.
Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the handle and rotating it 90°.
Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the ring and rotating it 90°.
The ring allows you to attach these spring plungers to a lanyard.
Use the lanyard as a tether to secure the spring plunger to machinery and prevent accidental drops.
Thread onto machinery or attach a knob or handle to the threaded spindle.
Install by hand or with a hex key in low-clearance applications.
A smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts.
A quarter turn of the handle locks these plungers in the retracted position. The smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts.
A quarter turn of the handle locks these plungers in the retracted position. The T-handle is easy to grip.
A T-handle makes these spring plungers easy to grip.
An L-handle takes up less space than a T-handle.
Add a knob or handle to the threaded shank.
Two holes in the plate allow these plungers to be mounted to a flat surface.
Use an arbor press or similar pressure tool to install these spring plungers into a panel.
Lock the nose in the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.
Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling and rotating the knob.
Insert the nose into a panel; then thread on the nut and tighten using an installation wrench.
Designed with a flange to keep the plunger from being pushed through a hole when the ball is depressed.
The flangeless design allows these spring plungers to mount flush with a surface.
An O-ring in the flange creates a tight seal.
Install these spring plungers with a screwdriver—they're slotted on one or both ends.
Install with a hex key for more torque than slotted ball-nose spring plungers.
Mount ball-nose and long-nose spring plungers to fixture surfaces.
Press these catches into a hole.
Weld these catches in place for a strong permanent hold.
Install spring plungers from the nose end without depressing the nose.
Also known as spring plungers, these fittings are spring-loaded to accommodate items with variable heights.