Turn the dial to control the percentage of time that these heaters cycle on, from 5% to 100%. Commonly used to thaw pipes, prevent valves from freezing, and heat beakers and flasks in labs, they're good for temporary and occasional use where rapid heating is required but precise temperature control is not.

Unlike self-regulating heaters, these provide a consistent heat output wattage along the entire length of the cable, regardless of the environmental temperature. They do not have a temperature sensor, so you should only use them in areas where you can monitor them with a thermometer (sold separately). Do not use behind walls, underground, or in other difficult-to-access areas.

With a rubber coating, these heaters are both moisture and chemical resistant. Install them onto surfaces that are free of dirt, grease, and rough edges using fiberglass tape or heat-transfer putty. Do not use electrical tape, duct tape, metal bands, or wire. To prevent burnout, make sure they're in full contact with the surface and have no overlap. To prevent heat loss, wrap with fiberglass insulation.

A nonadjustable thermostat turns these heaters on when the temperature drops below 38° F and turns them off when the temperature reaches 45° F. Often used to maintain liquid temperature and viscosity and provide freeze protection in pipe and tube systems, they supply the same wattage regardless of the surrounding temperature and are less prone to power surges than self-regulating heaters. To prevent burnout, they should be installed straight along pipes and tubes; they must not be overlapped or spiraled and must be in full contact with the surface being heated. All are rated for outdoor use. The plastic cable cover provides corrosion resistance and durability. Heaters have a plug with an indicator light that shows when the system has power.

Note: Only install these heaters in accessible locations; do not install them behind walls, underground, or in other difficult-to-access areas. Use fiberglass tape or heat-transfer putty to install them directly on surfaces that are free of dirt, grease, and rough edges. Do not use electrical tape, duct tape, metal bands, or wire. To prevent heat loss and protect heaters from moisture and corrosion, wrap them with fiberglass insulation.

With a cable that supplies the same wattage along the entire length, these heaters remain consistent regardless of the surrounding temperature. All require a temperature switch or controller (sold separately) to regulate heat output. They’re often used to maintain liquid temperature and viscosity and provide freeze protection in pipe and tube systems. To prevent burnout, heaters must not be overlapped and must be in full contact with the surface being heated. All have a plastic cable cover for corrosion resistance and durability. They are FM approved for hazardous locations. A power-connection/termination kit (sold separately) is required.

Power-connection/termination kit (sold separately) includes a junction box and a three-point DIN-mount terminal block to attach to your power source. It also includes adhesive, an end cap, and a power-connection cover to seal off the other end of your cable.

Termination kit (sold separately) includes adhesive, an end cap, and a power-connection cover to seal off the non-powered end of your cable.

LED termination kit (sold separately) has a high-visibility green LED to indicate when the heater is on. It also includes adhesive, an end cap, and a power-connection cover to seal off the non-powered end of your cable.

Note: Only install these heaters in accessible locations; do not install them behind walls, underground, or in other difficult-to-access areas. Use fiberglass tape or heat-transfer putty to install them directly on surfaces that are free of dirt, grease, and rough edges. Do not use electrical tape, duct tape, metal bands, or wire. To prevent heat loss and protect heaters from moisture and corrosion, wrap them with fiberglass insulation.

Wrap the flexible heating element around small-diameter pipes and tubes or pack it into tight spaces. These heaters maintain a consistent heat output along the entire length of the cable, regardless of the environmental temperature. All require a temperature switch or controller to regulate heat output. They do not produce an electromagnetic field, so they can be used near electronics.

Pair heaters with a 2.1 mm ID barrel connector with an AC adapter (not included) to power them from a standard AC wall outlet.

Note: Only install these heaters in accessible locations; do not install them behind walls, underground, or in other difficult-to-access areas. Use fiberglass tape or heat-transfer putty to install them directly on surfaces that are free of dirt, grease, and rough edges. Do not use electrical tape, duct tape, metal bands, or wire. To prevent heat loss and protect heaters from moisture and corrosion, wrap them with fiberglass insulation.

For demanding applications such as hot-melt transfer pipes, these heaters have a maximum heat output of 1400° F. The wattage and heat output stay consistent along the entire length of the cable, regardless of the temperature of the environment. All require a temperature switch or controller (sold separately) for regulating heat output. To prevent burnout, heaters must not overlap and must be in full contact with the surface being heated.

Heaters with a plug require a power controller (sold separately).

Note: Only install these heaters in accessible locations; do not install them behind walls, underground, or in other difficult-to-access areas. Use fiberglass tape or heat-transfer putty to install them directly on surfaces that are free of dirt, grease, and rough edges. Do not use electrical tape, duct tape, metal bands, or wire. To prevent heat loss and protect heaters from moisture and corrosion, wrap them with fiberglass insulation.

Thaw pipe without direct access to or knowing exactly where the frozen section is. Unlike pipe heating tape and cable, you only need to place a clamp on each side of the frozen section, so these thawers can warm pipe that is underground, beneath floors, and behind walls. The heater warms pipe with low-voltage, high-current power so just the outer layers of ice thaw, allowing water pressure to melt the rest of the ice. The clamps must be placed at least 15 ft. apart to prevent tripping a circuit breaker and can reach up to 40 ft. apart. The frozen section can include turns, so the run of pipe you're thawing can be longer than the distance the cables reach.

Thawers with an adjustable output current have a switch to flip between low-power usage and high-power usage. The low-power setting works with 15 amp circuit breakers, which are common. The high-power setting can thaw pipes quicker and thaw longer pipes.

Replace the cables with two 50 ft. cables to put the clamps 100 ft. away from each other.