Stop rain and snow from pooling in your threshold and seeping under the door. This weatherstripping has a drip guard that diverts water away from the seal between the bottom of the door and the floor. Also known as door sweeps.

Bulb seals compress against the floor or threshold to form a tight seal, and they conform to uneven surfaces. They insulate doors better than flat, finned, and brush seals.

Flat seals press tight against smooth surfaces, forming a solid barrier that blocks insects, drafts, and precipitation. However, they don’t compensate for uneven surfaces as well as bulb, finned, or brush seals.

Finned seals have three layers that press against the floor to create three separate barriers. They look similar to flat seals, but they’re better at insulating uneven surfaces.

Brush seals have flexible bristles that fill the gaps in irregular surfaces, such as pitted concrete, to block light, drafts, and moisture. Made of nylon, the bristles are durable and long-lasting. They’re also lightweight, so they won’t slow down self-closing doors.

Vinyl is flexible, durable, and moisture resistant.

Stick on this weatherstripping to seal the gap beneath your door, blocking out drafts, noise, moisture, dust, and insects. Three fins create multiple sealing points against the floor or threshold to compensate for uneven surfaces and insulate better than flat seals. Made of vinyl, this weatherstripping is flexible, rugged, and moisture resistant to withstand wear and tear. A 3M VHB (Very High Bond) adhesive ensures it will stay attached to your frame in any weather, no drilling or hardware required. For a precise fit, cut it to length with a hacksaw. It’s also known as a door sweep.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Avoid scuffing your floor and reduce wear on your seals—this weatherstripping has a plunger that lowers the seal as the door is closed and raises it as the door is opened. Also known as door sweeps, they close the gap between the bottom of the door and the floor. Weatherstripping can be cut with a saw. Up to 12" can be removed from weatherstripping with a vinyl seal. Up to 4" can be removed from weatherstripping with a nylon, silicone, or neoprene seal.

Brush seals have flexible filaments that conform to fill gaps. The filaments are nylon for good wear resistance.

Bulb seals compress to form a tight seal and can compensate for uneven surfaces. Made of silicone, they resist heat and UV rays.

Flat seals press against surfaces to create a seal.

Vinyl seals are the most economical choice. Neoprene seals resist abrasion.

Closed seal projection is measured when the door is closed. It does not include how much the seal retracts when the door is open.

In addition to mounting to the door's face, this weatherstripping fits into cutouts (mortises) to mount flush with the door. It has a plunger that lowers the seal as the door is closed and raises it as the door is opened to avoid scuffing your floor and reduce wear on your seals. Also known as door sweeps, they close the gap between the bottom of the door and the floor. Weatherstripping can be cut with a saw. Up to 4" can be removed from weatherstripping with a neoprene seal. Up to 2" can be removed from weatherstripping with a santoprene seal.

Neoprene seals resist abrasion.

Santoprene seals resist abrasion and weather.

Seal drafts, dust, and insects out of your space—this weatherstripping hugs the bottom of your door. Also known as door sweeps.

Bulb seals compress against the floor or threshold to form a tight seal, and they conform to uneven surfaces. They insulate doors better than flat seals. Similar to a kick plate, weatherstripping with a 3" high flange protects the base of the door from damage.

Flat seals press tight against smooth surfaces to form a solid barrier. However, they don’t compensate for uneven surfaces as well as bulb seals. Behind the seal, there’s a fire-stop strip that expands to eight times its original size in temperatures above 375° F. During a fire, it completely fills any gaps. This weatherstripping is often added to existing fire doors to help them meet NFPA safety regulations without replacing the entire door. Use end plates to cover the sides of the doors for a finished look from every angle.

Neoprene is more weather resistant than vinyl. It stands up to abrasion, water, oil, and detergents.

Vinyl is flexible, durable, and moisture resistant.

Anodized aluminum is more corrosion resistant than plain aluminum. The finish won’t tarnish even in harsh weather conditions.

Stainless steel is stronger than aluminum, so it holds its shape better if exposed to fire. It’s also more chemical and corrosion resistant.

A drip guard diverts rain and snow away from the bottom of the door. Also known as door sweeps, this weatherstripping closes the gap between the bottom of the door and the floor.

Close gaps between the top of a fire-rated door and its frame to comply with NFPA safety regulations. This UL-certified weatherstripping is often used to modify existing fire doors that no longer meet fire codes, so they don’t need to be replaced. Weatherstripping consists of a bulb seal, a fire-stop strip, a flange, and two end plates.

When the door is closed, the bulb seal compresses against the door frame, forming a tight barrier. This seal blocks air and compensates for uneven surfaces better than flat seals. Made from silicone, it’s durable enough to hold up to daily wear and tear. It’s also UV-resistant, and it withstands temperatures up to 450° F. A fire-stop strip lines the opposite side to completely seal gaps during a fire. When temperatures rise above 375° F, the strip expands to eight times its original size.

The stainless steel flange resists corrosion from water and chemicals. Stronger than aluminum flanges, it holds its shape even when fire is present. End plates are used to cover gaps on the sides of the doors for a finished look from every angle.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Close the gap between the bottom of an overhead door and the floor.

Face-mount weatherstripping withstands use on doors that are frequently opened and closed.

Flat seals press against surfaces to create a seal. Neoprene resists abrasion. EPDM resists UV and abrasion.

Bulb seals compress to form a tight seal and can compensate for uneven surfaces. Vinyl is the most economical choice. Neoprene resists abrasion.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Seal the space between your double doors.

Bulb seals mount on the edge of one door and compress against the other. They are concealed from view when the doors are closed. Like wraparound seals, they compensate for uneven surfaces and insulate better than flat and brush seals. They have santoprene seals that resist water, sunlight, and oxidation, so they’re often used on exterior doors.

Flat seals create a solid barrier to block drafts, light, and moisture. Mount along one door’s edge so the seal covers the other door, or mount a strip to each door so the seals overlap. Vinyl seals are flexible, durable, and moisture resistant. They have anodized aluminum flanges that resist corrosion and won’t tarnish even in harsh weather conditions. EPDM seals hold up to water, salt, detergents, UV light, and ozone, however they don’t withstand oil or solvents. They last longer than vinyl and stay flexible at lower temperatures. These seals have either anodized aluminum or stainless steel flanges that resist corrosion. Steel seals are stronger and more rigid than plastic and rubber seals, so they’re used as a barrier that keeps one door from swinging past the other. Stainless steel seals are just as rigid as steel and won’t corrode from chemicals or detergents, so they’re often used in food industry and marine environments.

Brush seals are sold in pairs—one strip for each door. They have flexible bristles that interlace when the doors are closed to block light and sound. However, they’re less weathertight than the other seal types. Made with nylon seals, the bristles are durable and long-lasting. They’re also lightweight, so they won’t keep doors from opening or closing. Anodized aluminum flanges resist corrosion and won’t tarnish even in harsh weather conditions.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

After installation, the seal projection can be adjusted with a screwdriver to ensure a tight fit. Use this weatherstripping to seal the space between your double doors. The seal is heat-, chemical-, and abrasion-resistant polypropylene.

To provide more protection from the elements than dock door seals, these shelters wrap around trailers. They can also be used to create a seal between oversized door openings and trailers. These shelters include two steel protectors to prevent damage to the shelters and trailers.

Shelters with a 24” projection require 3/8" or 1/2" Dia. × 4" Lg. anchors to mount in a block or brick.

This shelter is spring loaded, allowing it to retract and flex with trailers to provide a better seal than standard dock door shelters. It can also be used to create a seal between oversized door openings and trailers. To mount in block or brick, 3/8" or 1/2" Dia. × 4" Lg. anchors are required.