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These internally threaded rod ends have an eyelet and a ball that swivels to support angular misalignment. Also known as rod-end bearings.
Also known as rod‐end bearings, ball joint rod ends have an eyelet and a ball that swivels to support angular misalignment.
A carbon fiber-reinforced insert or PTFE liner reduces wear, handles shock loads, and eliminates the need for lubrication.
An oil-embedded bronze insert slowly releases lubricant throughout the life of these internally threaded rod ends.
An oil-embedded bronze insert slowly releases lubricant throughout the life of the rod end.
For ease of installation, these rod ends come with a compatible jam nut. They have an eyelet and a ball that swivel to support angular misalignment.
Connect your grease gun to the fitting to lubricate.
An oil-embedded bronze insert slowly releases lubricant to the rod end. Connect your grease gun to the fitting to relubricate.
Connect your grease gun to the fitting to lubricate. Internal threads mate with rod end bolts, threaded rods, and other components with male threads.
These internally threaded rod ends have an oil-embedded bronze insert that slowly releases lubricant over time. Connect your grease gun to the fitting to relubricate.
Seals keep out dirt and an oil-embedded foam insert slowly releases lubricant for a long life.
With at least 55° of ball swivel, these externally threaded rod ends accommodate greater misalignment than any other we offer.
With at least 55° of ball swivel, these rod ends accommodate greater misalignment than any other internally threaded rod end we offer.
Made to extremely tight tolerances, these internally threaded rod ends are for applications that require positioning accuracy, such as accelerators and other types of control linkages.
Made of cadmium-plated steel, these externally threaded rod ends generally handle higher loads than stainless steel, aluminum, and nylon rod ends.
Made to extremely tight tolerances, these externally threaded rod ends are for applications that require positioning accuracy, such as accelerators and other types of control linkages.
Made of cadmium-plated steel, these internally threaded rod ends generally handle higher loads than stainless steel, aluminum, and nylon rod ends.
Made of stainless steel, these externally threaded rod ends provide excellent corrosion resistance.
Made of stainless steel, these internally threaded rod ends provide excellent corrosion resistance.
These anodized aluminum rod ends are lighter than stainless steel rod ends and have good corrosion resistance. Internal threads mate with rod end bolts, threaded rods, and other components with male threads.
These anodized aluminum rod ends are lighter than stainless steel rod ends and have good corrosion resistance.
Made of impact-resistant nylon, these externally threaded rod ends withstand corrosion as well as fuels, lyes, and weak acids. They do not require lubrication and are 80% lighter than steel rod ends.
Made of impact-resistant nylon, these internally threaded rod ends withstand corrosion as well as fuels, lyes, and weak acids. They do not require lubrication and are 80% lighter than steel rod ends.
These internally threaded rod ends have an innovative body design that keeps the ball from being pushed out when supporting thrust loads.
An innovative body design keeps the ball from being pushed out when supporting thrust loads.
A double row of precision ball bearings allows high speeds and smooth operation.
These internally threaded steel rod ends handle loads that are at least 25% higher than other comparably sized rod ends.
These externally threaded steel rod ends handle loads that are at least 25% higher than other comparably sized rod ends.
Along with internal threads, these rod ends have a double row of precision ball bearings that allows high speeds and smooth operation.
With a ball joint at the top of the shank, these rod ends pivot in the middle of the body instead of in the eyelet. Use them for linear push applications that require movement along the length of the connecting rod.
Decrease the ID of your rod end to allow approximately 60° of misalignment.
Made of stainless steel, these ball joint linkages offer more corrosion resistance than steel ball joint linkages.
A spring-loaded sleeve allows for rapid assembly and disassembly. These ball joint linkages are made of steel.
These linkages offer excellent wear resistance. They consist of internally threaded ball joint rod ends with a ball stud attached to simplify mounting.
Able to stand up to frequent use, these linkages offer excellent wear resistance. They consist of ball joint rod ends with a ball stud attached to simplify mounting.
An oil-embedded bronze insert slowly releases lubricant to the rod end.
An oil-embedded bronze insert slowly releases lubricant throughout the life of the joint.
Along with excellent wear resistance, these linkages have a grease fitting for easy lubrication. An internally threaded rod end connects to threaded rods, studs, and other parts with male threads.
These internally threaded linkages have a slippery PTFE liner that reduces wear and eliminates the need for lubrication.
Along with excellent wear resistance, these linkages have a grease fitting for easy lubrication.
A slippery PTFE liner reduces wear and eliminates the need for lubrication.
Made of stainless steel, these ball joint linkages offer more corrosion resistance than steel and zinc ball joint linkages.
Use these bent linkages for light duty applications.
Use these linkages to create inline pivoting connections. They have internal threads on one end and external threads on the other.
Use these externally threaded linkages to create inline pivoting connections.
Made of zinc-plated steel or stainless steel, these clevis rod ends offer more corrosion resistance than standard steel clevis rod ends.
These steel rod ends are machined to SAE standards.
In addition to offering superior chemical resistance, these lightweight, fiber-reinforced nylon rod ends also reduce noise and vibration.
Make quick adjustments to these rod ends by inserting and releasing the clevis pins without the need to bend them into place.
A male-threaded shank lets you build a linkage with a tapped tube or any female-threaded connection.
Thread or weld the unfinished shank of these rod ends to meet your specific linkage needs.
Designed for use with right-hand, internally threaded rod ends, these rods have right-hand threads on both ends. Use them for remote valve operators, throttle controllers, shifting mechanisms, and virtually any push/pull assembly.
Designed for use with right-hand, externally threaded rod ends, these rods have right-hand threads on both ends. Use them for remote valve operators, throttle controllers, shifting mechanisms, and virtually any push/pull assembly.
Similar to turnbuckles, these rods have right-hand threads on one end and left-hand threads on the other so you can make a linkage that adjusts for tension.
Similar to turnbuckles, these rods have right-hand threads on one end and left-hand threads on the other so you can make a linkage that adjusts for tension. Add right- and left-hand threaded rod ends to build your linkages.
These black-oxide steel rod end bolts are heat treated for added strength.
With a rubber bushing, these bolts reduce noise and vibration—attach them to rods, pipes, tubes, and cable linkages that have male threading. They’re commonly known as isolated rod ends.
Good for general purpose applications where corrosion and high strength aren’t a concern, these rod end bolts are made of carbon steel.
To reduce noise and vibration, these bolts have a rubber bushing—connect them to rods, pipes, tubes, and cable linkages that have female threading. They’re also known as isolated rod ends.
These alloy steel bolts have the highest tensile strength of any blank rod end bolt we offer.
Made of stainless steel, these rod end bolts are stronger and more corrosion resistant than our standard flat-shoulder rod end bolts.
Made of stainless steel, these rod end bolts are more corrosion resistant than steel rod end bolts.
Pivot and hinge components in wet and corrosive environments with these stainless steel or brass rod end bolts.
These alloy steel rod end bolts have the highest tensile strength of any steel fully threaded rod end bolt we offer.
These rod end bolts are good for wet and corrosive environments—for maximum mounting flexibility, cut the fully threaded shaft to whatever length you need.
Also known as swing bolts and eyebolts, these internally threaded rod end bolts have no moving parts. They're designed to make pivoting or hinge movements in applications that don't need to compensate for misalignment.
Create pivoting connections in applications that require high shear strength—the partially threaded shank of these rod end bolts withstands more side force than a fully threaded shank.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these ball-with-shank-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these stud-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these clevis-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these eye-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Add a mounting plate to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Add a stud end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Add a clevis end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Add an eye-end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Install these eye-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Install these clevis-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Install these stud-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Install these swivel-hook-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty stud-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.
Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these clevis-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.
Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these hook-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.
Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty mounting-plate-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.
Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty eye-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.
Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these eye-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.
Also known as open wedge sockets, these end fittings require only a torque wrench to install.
Keep multiple sleeves on hand in a variety of sizes.
These kits include two compression sleeves paired with two thimbles. The thimbles support the wire rope loops and prevent it from fraying.
These compression sleeves are designed to meet lifting specifications.
Use these sleeves for non-lifting applications such as tethering, securing, and suspending.
Make a removable loop without specialty tools for use in noncritical applications, such as fencing. Also known as tiller clamps.
Kits include clamps and thimbles to support a wire rope loop and prevent it from fraying. Clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and U-bolt on the short (dead) end.
Use in noncritical applications, such as fencing, where the strength of a forged clamp is not required. Install clamps so the saddle is on the long (live) end and the U-bolt is on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
Create a loop by feeding the wire rope through the clamp and tighten the set screw to secure it in place. Loosen the set screw to quickly adjust the loop. Also known as Gripple rope clamps. They are for use in noncritical applications, such as fencing.
A clamp and thimble in one convenient fitting simplifies installation while providing support and fray protection to the wire rope loop. Use a torque wrench to tighten the clamp.
Install these clamps without any specific orientation, slide the nut over the rope and tighten it onto the threaded halves with a torque wrench.
These clamps have a forged fabrication and are reliable in critical applications. They are not for making slings. These must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
These clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and the U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
Constructed with a saddle for both the long (live) end and the short (dead) end, these clamps apply equal pressure without crimping or crushing the wire rope, so orientation doesn't matter. Also known as fist grip wire rope clips.
Also known as heavy-pattern thimbles, these can be used to reinforce the loop of a sling.
These thimbles are also known as thin pattern thimbles.
The open-end design leaves more room for connections than other thimbles.
Also known as standard-pattern thimbles, these provide better protection against fraying than light duty thimbles.
Smooth rounded edges and an endless design prevent snags.
Attach to a threaded anchor or hole for support and use the loop to secure the suspended material.
Create a choker loop around a supporting structure with the snap-hook end and use the loop to secure the suspended material.
A large opening combined with an easy to open latch allows for quick and easy attachment to links and rings.
Made to meet stringent military standards, the fittings on these lanyards meet MS 20668.
A thimble on the inside of the loop protects the wire rope from fraying.
The swivel fork allows the lanyard to rotate freely.
Use the twin hooks to suspend items from two points and use the loop to secure the suspended material. For use with cable trays or signs.
Attach the 90° eye to a surface for support and use the loop to secure the suspended material.
Made to meet stringent military standards, the fittings on these lanyards meet MS 20668 and MS 21259.
Secure a ball with shank to a flat surface.
The swivel fork ends allow the lanyard to rotate freely.
The chain has flat links that fold back on themselves for maximum flexibility. Use the split ring on one end to hold tags and keys.
These all-plastic lanyards are an economical alternative to rope and wire rope lanyards.
A lighter and more flexible alternative to wire rope lanyards.
Twist stripped wires together, insert them into the connector, and then crimp for a dependable connection.
Create a secure connection that resists corrosion and water.
A plastic cover fully insulates these splices and is clear so you can visually confirm the connection.
No wire stripping is required—these connectors will pierce the insulation.
Able to withstand temperatures up to 900°F, these splices are suitable for use in high-heat applications such as ovens, motors, and light fixtures.
A plastic cover fully insulates these splices.
Filled with grease, these splices resist moisture and corrosion.
The most secure, electrically conductive, and environmentally sealed connection we offer, these splices have enclosed solder and an adhesive-lined insulation that melt when heat is applied.
Visually confirm your connection through the inspection window.
When heat is applied, adhesive-lined insulation shrinks and bonds to wires, creating a moisture- and corrosion-resistant seal.
Visually confirm your connection through the inspection window in the insulation of these splices.
These splices can withstand higher temperatures than insulated splices.
Crimp the barrel twice on each end for an extra-tight grip in high-vibration applications. A plastic cover fully insulates these splices.
When heat is applied, adhesive-lined insulation shrinks and bonds to the wires, creating a watertight seal.
Check to make sure you’ve made a secure connection between two different sizes of wire with the inspection window on these splices. When heated, their adhesive-lined insulation shrinks and bonds to wires, creating a water- and corrosion-resistant seal.
Create a water- and corrosion-resistant seal while connecting two different sizes of wire.
Push stripped wire into each end of these splices to make a connection.
Create a secure wire connection that stands up to both water and high temperatures without any crimping.
With a ring of solder on the inside, these heat-shrink splices create secure, water-resistant connections between wires without the need for a crimping tool.
Press down on the clamp to connect wires for quick field installation, no crimping or tools required
Sealed threads make these splices weather resistant.
Insert wires and twist on the threaded end caps. The caps lock wires into place, making these splices a good choice for high-vibration applications.
Connect wire without stripping—these splices pierce insulation.
Pierce the insulation of wire without stripping it to make quick connections that are also sealed to keep out water.
Snap these splices onto your wire and they’ll pierce the insulation without you having to strip it.
When you apply heat to these connectors, the solder inside melts to create the most secure, electrically conductive, and environmentally sealed connection we offer. They also have an adhesive-lined insulation that shrinks and bonds to wire when heated, protecting it from water and corrosion.
Since a cover fully insulates these splices, no metal is exposed when connected.
Connect two different sizes of wire.
For use with a compression tool, these splices are color-coded to match compression dies.
Compress the barrel twice on each end for an extra-tight grip in high-vibration applications.
Join wires and cables in some of the dirtiest and wettest locations—from paper mills to marine environments—without special tools.
Make watertight connections for underground applications.
A plastic cover fully insulates these splices and it's clear so you can visually confirm the connection.
Tighten the screws to connect wires.
Suitable for use underground, these connectors consist of a twist-on wire connector and an abrasion- and moisture-resistant insulator tube.
Suitable for use in tight spaces, these connectors have a narrow profile that takes up less space than standard wire splicing connectors.
Make a quick, secure wire connection without crimping.
Rated to 300° F, these connectors are an excellent choice for use in high-temperature applications such as HID lighting and electric heat.
Large enough to be used with a wide range of wire sizes, these connectors can still fit into cramped outlet boxes.
Made of porcelain, these connectors can withstand temperatures up to 1200°F.
Grip the wings on these connectors to increase leverage when tightening.
Filled with silicone, these connectors seal out moisture and prevent corrosion.
Soft molding over the wings provides a comfortable grip.
Make quick, watertight connections for underground applications without any crimping.
Push stripped wires into connectors for a reliable connection that's faster to install than twisting or crimping.
Quickly connect wires without crimping or twisting.
Splice large size wires without special tools—insert your wires and tighten the hex nut to make a connection.
Taps connect to wires with male quick-disconnect terminals.
Tighten screws to connect a tap wire to a main wire.
Tap a wire or add a finished terminal to the end of a wire.
Filled with gel, these wire taps seal out moisture.
Connect a tap wire to a main wire without stripping—these wire taps penetrate insulation.
Convenient for jobs where you don't have crimpers on hand, these wire taps twist together to connect a tap wire to a main wire.
Connect one wire to two wires of the same size. When heat is applied, adhesive-lined insulation shrinks and bonds to the wires, creating a moisture- and corrosion-resistant seal.
Use a single splice to connect more than two wires.
Tap and splice multiple wires in temporarily wet environments and up to six feet underground.
When heat is applied, adhesive-lined insulation shrinks and bonds to the wires, creating a moisture- and corrosion-resistant seal.
Tap and splice multiple wires together at the same time.
Divide one male quick disconnect connection into two.
Slide these lugs onto cable and strike them with your hammer to create a durable connection.
Use a compression tool to attach lugs to wire. Mount them to a screw.
Solid pins make it easy to insert stranded wire into screw-clamp connections. The plastic cover on the barrel of these lugs provides electrical insulation to prevent short-circuiting with nearby wire.
Drill mounting holes on these lugs where you need them. With a long barrel, you can compress them twice for an extra-tight grip in high-vibration applications.
With a thicker tab and OD, these lugs are more durable and dissipate more heat from high electrical loads than standard compression lugs. They have a long barrel, so you can compress them twice for an extra-tight grip in high-vibration applications.
The barrel is longer than other lugs, so you can compress it twice for an extra-tight grip in high-vibration applications.
Accommodate differently spaced screws when connecting to equipment rails or bus bars with the slotted mounting hole on these lugs. With a long barrel, you can compress them twice for an extra-tight grip in high-vibration applications.
Thread these lugs onto grounding or neutral bars commonly found in panelboards. For a secure connection without crimping, tighten the set screw.
Save space on your mounting surface by installing wire vertically.
Tighten the set screw for a secure connection without crimping. Mount lugs to a screw.
Mount these lugs to a surface to create electrical connections without needing to cut or splice the conductor wire. For a secure connection without crimping, tighten the set screw onto the wire.
To prevent short-circuiting with nearby wire, a plastic cover insulates the barrel on these lugs. Tighten the set screw for a secure connection without crimping.
Often used in tight spaces, these lugs allow wire to enter at several angles.
With screw heads that shear off when the appropriate torque is applied, these lugs create a secure and tamper-resistant connection without crimping.
Solder these lugs in place, or use a crimping tool for a secure connection.
Connect two female quick-disconnects.
Turn screw and stud terminals into quick-disconnect connections.
A hybrid of ring and spade terminals, these install without removing the mounting screw, yet resist being pulled off.
A plastic cover on the barrel provides electrical insulation to prevent short-circuiting with nearby wire. These terminals are a hybrid of ring and spade terminals; they install without removing the mounting screw, yet resist being pulled off.
A flat surface creates strong screw-clamp connections. These terminals have a plastic cover that provides electrical insulation to prevent short-circuiting with nearby wire.
Made of heat-resistant materials, these terminals are designed for high-temperature applications, such as motors, ovens, and furnaces.
A plastic cover on the barrel of these terminals provides electrical insulation to prevent short-circuiting with nearby wire. Loosen your mounting screw to install—the open end eliminates the need to completely remove it.
When heat is applied, the insulation on these terminals shrinks and creates a seal that keeps out water and contaminants. Loosen your mounting screw to install—the open end eliminates the need to completely remove it.
Loosen your mounting screw to install—the open end eliminates the need to completely remove it. They are noninsulated, so you can easily inspect the wire connection.
When heat is applied, the enclosed solder melts, creating the most secure and electrically conductive connection we offer. The insulation also shrinks when heated, forming a seal to keep out water and contaminants.
Add strength and stability to stranded wire to protect it from damage and speed insertion into terminal blocks. These terminals are noninsulated, so you can easily inspect the wire connection.
A plastic cover on the barrel provides electrical insulation to prevent short-circuiting with nearby wire. These wire ferrules add strength and stability to stranded wire to protect it from damage and speed insertion into terminal blocks.
These terminals are connected to a single-conductor wire lead.
Rated UL 94 V-0 for flame resistance, these terminals are made of flame-retardant, self-extinguishing material to reduce the risk of fire.
Designed for high-temperature applications such as motors, ovens, and furnaces, these terminals are made of heat-resistant materials. They slide together and pull apart with ease, so they are convenient for applications that require frequent connections.
The connection tab on these terminals is completely covered with insulation, leaving no metal exposed when mated. Connect two wires to the same terminal—these female terminals have a male tab piggybacked onto them that connects with a female quick-disconnect.
Connect two wires to the same terminal—these female terminals have a male tab piggybacked onto them that connects with a female quick-disconnect. A plastic cover on the barrel provides electrical insulation to prevent short-circuiting with nearby wire.
Convenient for applications that require frequent connections, these terminals slide together and pull apart with ease. They are noninsulated, so you can easily inspect the wire connection.
A male tab piggybacked onto these female terminals lets you connect two wires to a single quick-disconnect terminal. They are noninsulated, so you can easily inspect the wire connection.
When heat is applied to these piggyback terminals, the insulation shrinks and creates a seal that keeps out water and contaminants and prevents short circuiting from nearby wire. These female terminals have a male tab piggybacked onto them, so you can connect two wires to a single terminal.
A plastic cover on the barrel provides electrical insulation rated to 600 volts.
Easy to install, connect, and disconnect, yet difficult to shake loose. These terminals interlock with each other to make a secure connection.
A plastic cover on the barrel provides electrical insulation to prevent short-circuiting with nearby wire. Convenient for applications that require frequent connections, these terminals slide together and pull apart with ease.
The connection tab on these terminals is completely covered with insulation, leaving no metal exposed when mated. They slide together and pull apart with ease, so they are convenient for applications that require frequent connections.
The connection tab on these terminals is completely covered with insulation, leaving no metal exposed when mated. When heat is applied, the insulation shrinks, forming a seal to keep out water and contaminants. The enclosed solder also melts when heated, creating the most secure and electrically conductive connection we offer.
The connection tab on these terminals is completely covered with insulation, leaving no metal exposed when mated.
Heat these terminals to shrink the insulation, creating a seal that keeps out water and contaminants. The insulation covers the barrel to prevent short circuiting with nearby wires. Convenient for applications that require frequent connections, these terminals slide together and pull apart with ease.
When heat is applied, the insulation on these terminals shrinks, creating a seal that keeps out water and contaminants. These solid pin terminals make it easier to insert stranded wire into screw-clamp connections.
Since these terminals aren’t insulated, you can easily inspect the wire connection. The solid pin makes it easier to insert stranded wire into screw-clamp connections.
A plastic cover insulates the barrel to prevent short-circuiting with nearby wire.
Also known as bullet terminals, these have a round tab that requires less space than the flat tab found on most quick-disconnect terminals. Because they are noninsulated, you can easily inspect the wire connection.
When heat is applied, the insulation shrinks and creates a seal that keeps out water and contaminants. Also known as bullet terminals, these have a round tab that requires less space than the flat tab found on most quick-disconnect terminals.
When heated, the enclosed solder in these terminals melts forming the most secure and electrically conductive connection we offer. The plastic insulation also shrinks when heated, sealing out water and contaminants. Also known as bullet terminals.
The connection on these terminals is completely covered with insulation when mated, leaving no metal exposed and preventing short-circuiting with nearby wire. Also known as bullet terminals, these have a round tab that requires less space than the flat tab found on most quick-disconnect terminals.
With a heat-resistant PVDF cover on the barrel, these terminals are best for high-temperature applications where you want to prevent short-circuiting with nearby wire.
A plastic cover on the barrel provides electrical insulation to prevent short-circuiting with nearby wire. These terminals have a serrated edge on the inside of the ring that grips the mounting screw for a secure hold.
A serrated edge on the inside of the ring grips the mounting screw for a secure hold.
When heat is applied, the insulation shrinks and creates a seal that keeps out water and contaminants. Mount these terminals on a threaded screw or stud for a more secure connection than spade or hook terminals.
Mount these elongated ring terminals on a range of threaded screw and stud sizes—their connection is more secure than spade or hook terminals.
For easy crimping, lay wire into the open barrel instead of threading it through a closed barrel.
When heat is applied, the enclosed solder melts, creating the most secure and electrically conductive connection we offer. The plastic insulation also shrinks when heated, forming a seal to keep out water and contaminants.
A plastic cover on the barrel provides electrical insulation to prevent short-circuiting from nearby wire. These terminals have an elongated ring that can be mounted with a range of screw sizes.
With a thicker ring and a plastic cover on the barrel, these terminals are more durable than standard ring terminals and insulated to prevent short circuiting with nearby wire.
Mount these terminals on a threaded screw or stud for a more secure connection than spade and hook terminals. They are noninsulated, so you can easily inspect the wire connection.
The elongated ring can be mounted with a range of screw sizes.
Made of heat-resistant materials, these terminals are designed for installation in high-temperature applications such as motors, ovens, and furnaces. They are noninsulated, so you can easily inspect the wire connection.
Thicker than standard ring terminals and noninsulated, these terminals are best when you need durability and to easily inspect the wire connection.
Keep a variety of quick-disconnect terminal sizes on hand.
Keep a variety of ferrule sizes on hand.
No crimping or wire stripping needed—this assortment includes twist-on wire connectors and insulation-piercing wire taps.
Keep a variety of ring terminal sizes on hand.
Twist the threaded end cap onto a main wire and a tap wire to connect them without crimping.
Designed for use in high-temperature applications such as motors, ovens, and furnaces, these assortments include a variety of terminals and splices made of heat-resistant materials.
Secure wire faster than twisting and crimping with the connectors in these kits. Push stripped wire into them for a reliable connection.
For use where water and contaminants are a concern, the terminals and splices in these assortments have insulation that shrinks and creates a tight seal when heated.
A good choice for jobs where you don’t have crimping tools on hand, these connectors twist on to install wire quickly.
Maintain a supply of extra terminals and splices in various sizes.
Keep on hand a variety of different sized terminals and splices with the most secure, sealed connection we offer.
When the splices in these assortments are heated, the enclosed solder melts to create the most secure, electrically conductive, and environmentally sealed connection we offer.
Keep on hand the set screw lugs, nuts, and bolts needed to install single- or three-phase dry-type transformers.
Convenient for jobs when you don't have a crimping tool on hand, these butt splices have end caps that you twist instead of traditional crimping. The end caps lock the wire in place, making them good for high-vibration applications.
Keep splicing connectors on hand for two, three, or five wires.
Keep a variety of lug sizes on hand.
Connect these clamps to cable with a crimping tool or by soldering.
Made of lead, these clamps resist corrosion to stand up to marine environments. Use a lug to attach your cable to the stud.
Insert your stripped cable into the compression nut and tighten; no crimping or heat is required.
When heat is applied, the flux and solder mixture creates a metallic bond that is nearly twice as strong as crimping or compression connections.
Connect these clamps to a wide range of wire sizes
Connect these lugs to cable with a crimping tool or by soldering.
Thicker walls than standard battery terminal lugs make these more durable.
Serrations on both sides lock these lugs in place.
Seal out dust and moisture to protect terminals, splices, and other electrical connectors. These enclosures are lined with a sticky gel that encapsulates the electrical connector.
Easily connect thermocouple wire to screw terminals without completely removing the screw.
For use with wire rope in light duty applications, these turnbuckles have a closed body that protects threads from damage and debris.
Customize the length of these switches by cutting them from a 50-foot roll.