Often used to make parts that will be used near ovens, engines, and other hot machinery, these PEI filaments remain strong and rigid in temperatures that would soften most plastic. They’re a lightweight alternative to machined metal parts. Print these filaments on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. Because of their high melting points, you'll need an all-metal extruder and heated printer bed to reach their minimum printing temperature. Without the heated printer bed, parts will cool too quickly and warp.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament’s overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it’s the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

Stretchy, soft, and sturdy, these filaments make durable parts that resist breakage despite repeated use. Stronger than ABS and PLA filaments, they create long-lasting parts, such as seals, sleeves, and gaskets, as well as components that take on high-impact forces, such as springs and snap-fit parts. These filaments don't require a heated printer bed, and they won't shrink or warp when cooling. Use them with a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. In general, these flexible filaments require a slow feed rate so they don't jam. The softer your filament, the slower your feed rate will need to be. Store them in a sealed container with a desiccant, or use a dehumidifying cabinet, since ambient humidity will cause the plastic to degrade and weaken.

For the most flexible parts, use durometer 85A or 80A filaments. They're more flexible than other TPU filaments. For a quick print without sacrificing flexibility, choose durometer 95A filaments. They print much faster than other TPU filaments.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament's overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it's the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Fabricate custom bottles, packaging, and other parts for chemical processing. Made of PPS, these filaments won’t break down even after prolonged exposure to virtually any acid, base, or solvent. They also stand up to oil and fuel, so they’re sometimes made into automotive parts. Because they have a low density and won’t transfer electricity, they make parts that are lightweight and protect components from electric currents. These filaments are easy to store too, since they resist absorbing water. Rated UL 94 V-0, they meet flammability standards.

Print these filaments on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. Due to its high melting point, PPS is more difficult to print than most other materials. You need an all-metal extruder and a heated printer bed to reach its minimum printing temperature. After printing, anneal your part in an oven for 2 to 4 hours to reach its maximum strength, temperature, and ability to resist chemicals.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament’s overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it’s the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.